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How to change the ATF in a 2011 Honda Pilot.
4quarts of Honda ATF DW-11/2" socket extensions, such that socket+extensions is 2ft long17mm socket, 1/2"1/2" breaker bar (for the 1st time ever taking the ATF filler bolt off)3/8" breaker bar (for taking off the ATF drain bolt) step stool or small ladder (to put the ATF fill bolt back in easily)safety glasseswheel chocks
Went to my local Honda Dealer"s Parts Desk (Honda of Pasadena, NE corner of Allen and Walnut, open until 5pm on Saturdays). They sell (4 quarts of Honda ATF DW-1 + the drain plug washer) as a "kit." US$42.
Seems DW-1 is the replacement for the no-longer-available ATF Z1. (I made sure to ask, as I immediately noticed that the ATF bottles given to me didn"t match what I had written down to get.)
Parked our 2nd car in front of the house, moved the Honda Pilot into the driveway, to work on. Always a good idea to have the 2nd car "out", for drives for any needed tools or food runs, when working on a car ; ) ...Waited 30min for the engine to cool down, so the ATF would be warm, and not scary-hot.
Have parking brake on, and put wheel chocks on both sides of one of the wheels, for safety. Put on eye protection, too.
Open car hood. For the 2011 Honda Pilot, there is no need to remove the engine cover. If you put your face right next to the brake fluid reservoir, and look down, you can see the ATF filler bolt. It is colored with some blue paint on top, from the factory.
Using 1/2" extensions, and a 17mm socket, such that the total length of the extensions+socket is 2ft long, attach to the ATF filler bolt. Loosen the filler bolt.
*** The first time attempt to loosen the filler bolt is scary. It was on crazy-tight (did they use thread-lock compound?). Slowly and carefully start to add more and more torque using the breaker bar. Mine came loose with a big -POP- sound. ***
Using the 3/8" breaker bar, insert it into the ATF drain plug at the bottom of the motor/transmission. It is the only "square hole" bolt at the bottom, about 1ft towards the driver"s side from where the oil change drain bolt is.
The ATF drain bolt uses a metal washer. If you do not see it, it is either sticking to the side of the transmission, or fell into the ATF oil pan, and you"ll have to get dirty and fish it out : )
Using a rag, clean the drain bolt, the black magnet of any metallic dust, and the washer. Once the ATF has finished draining, perhaps between 5min and 15min or so (just like for a regular engine oil change), reinstall the ATF drain bolt+washer, and tighten. Do not use the breaker bars to reinstall, just use normal length tools and regular torque, to avoid stripping the aluminum threads.
Fully remove the ATF filler bolt+washer. Using a ATF funnel, add 3.5 quarts of ATF into the filler hole. Reinstall the ATF filler bolt+washer. Tighten. Do not use the breaker bars to reinstall, just use normal length tools and regular torque, to avoid stripping the aluminum threads.
Check for leaks. Take the car on a short drive, so the ATF becomes warm. Drive the car to a level surface, and check the ATF level with the dipstick. The ATF should be between the two little holes in the dipstick. Adjust, if needed, by adding some ATF via the dipstick pipe with a tiny funnel/bigger funnel arrangement.
Document the mileage you did the ATF change. Internet recommends changing it a bit more often than the car"s computer will indicate via service light. I am planning on every 20,000 miles or so.
Car odometer at time of the ATF change: 40,022 miles.
For my 2011 Honda Pilot, 3.5quarts was exactly the correct amount. Drove it for about 5minutes, then parked in the driveway, turned off the car, and checked the ATF dipstick. Bottom hole had ATF, top hole was dry: exactly right.